Last Day of School


Me and a few of my students.
My four weeks in Ban Mi have come and gone as Tuesday was the last day of school.   I definitely planned on teaching longer than six weeks while I was here, but then again- I guess I didn't really plan at all.  I honestly never looked into when the Thai school term starts and finishes and when they take their holidays.  But after being here, I get it.  March and April are the hottest months (lucky me) so it makes sense for the break to happen during that time.  So after a month that past in the blink of an eye, my time in Ban Mi is over.  Teaching in Thailand was a wonderful and unique experience that gave me the opportunity to see a side of the culture that many tourists don't ever get to experience.  I have been fortunate to be able to participate in the everyday life of Thailand and it truly has been a once in a life time experience. 

Assembly on the last day of school.

The last few days of school were pretty much what you would expect from the last few days at any school.  Kids checked out and not paying attention, teachers giving out busy work to keep them occupied, yearbooks being passed back and forth, pictures being taken and goodbyes being said.  It was hard to leave my students and the faculty in the Foreign Language department who made me feel so welcome, but I think the hardest thing for me to leave behind was normalcy, or at least closest thing resembling it since I've been here.  I was in Ban Mi for four weeks which is the longest I have been in one place in about 3 months.  It felt nice to unpack my stuff, however little of it there is; be a regular at my favorite restaurant; have a routine and just stay in one place for awhile. But if Thailand has taught me anything its not to get to comfortable.  I packed up my suitcase - again - and moved back to the Twinhouse on Wednesday afternoon.  In all honesty, it's very strange to be back.   It still feels like home, but not in the same way as when I first arrived.  There are only a handful of people that I know but I'm not surprised, it has been over 2 months since I've been here.  Same place just different people, and an entirely different vibe along with it.  There are always people coming and going so the mood changes quickly.

I am planning on being here, or at least with the organization, for the rest of my time in Thailand.  I will spend the first few weeks at the local orphanage, painting, cleaning and playing with the kids. I'm really looking forward to spending some more time with Thai children, but also really helping out and getting my hands dirty.  After that I plan on spending a few weeks doing some of the projects that the Twinhouse offers around Thailand.  Stay tuned for an update on my time at the orphanage. 

Thai Culture 101

I started compiling this information not long after I got here and the list has been growing ever since. I wanted to have more of this in my normal posts but I really didn't know how to fit it in.  So instead you get a summary of the Thai Culture in one big post - a la Megan Anton.  I thought it was fitting to post it this week since I have been here for just over seven weeks and I have about seven to go. So here is my take on the Thai culture - smack dab in the middle of my adventure.  Some of this information is common knowledge in Thailand, some I have learned from the experts and some is just my humble opinion.

Religion
Religion is extremely important here.  The country is 95% Buddhist and you don't have to look far to see signs of it. It is said that Bangkok alone has between 400 and 500 temples.  Religion is taught in school, morning prayers are said at assembly every morning and many times there is a small temple on the grounds.  Buddhism in Thailand is influenced by traditional beliefs regarding natural and ancestral spirits.  Offerings of food and water are presented to keep these spirits happy.  Many Thai households own 'spirit houses', a small ornate and colorful house where they believe the household spirits live.  If these spirits aren't happy then it is believed they will inhabit the larger house and cause chaos.  You can find these spirit houses outside of almost every Thai home as well as in public places, where people make public offerings.  Monks are high in the hierarchy of Thai society and demand their own religious protocol.  Thai monks are forbidden to physical contact with women, so therefore women are expected to make way for passing monks to make sure that contact does not accidentally occur.  When making offerings, women place donations at the feet of the monks since directly handing things to the monk is not allowed. 

King
If religion is number one in Thailand, then the king is number two. Thailand has been a constitutional monarchy since 1932 and the current king, King Bhumibol Adulyadej or King Rama IX was corrinated in 1946, making him the longest ruling monarch in the world.  The king is well loved and respected through out the country and you can see his picture and flag just about everywhere.   But take this information with a grain of salt for it is a crime to disrespect the king in anyway.  People are still punished for criticizing the king. It is also rude to step on any Thai currency that has fallen on the ground, since the king appears on all money.

Attitude 
As in many Asian cultures, the notion of face is very important in Thailand.  Thai people generally don't show emotion and one should be careful to place blame or do anything to cause another person loose face.  It is very important to stay calm and avoid conflict.  Disagreements and disputes are often settled with a smile and the phrase ‘Mai Pen Rai’ meaning ‘it’s nothing’ or ‘it doesn’t matter.’ This reflects the disposition towards minimizing any arguments whatsoever. The idea of individuality is virtually unknown here.  The society as a whole is more important than the individual members and it is best to follow the crowd.  Children are never taught the phrase 'just be yourself' and 'everybody is special.'  Rather prefer not to stand out from everybody else. 

Head & Feet 
A very important social norm here is the respect shown to a persons head.  It is the highest part of the body and therefor should be respected.  It is rude to touch somebodies head, especially strangers.  (This is a tough one, especially working with children)  It is also considered rude to place your feet above another persons head, mostly because the feet are seen as the least important and dirtiest part of the body.   One should never point with their feet or move anything with them.  You should also never step over people, books or food.  General rule of thumb is to avoid showing the bottoms of your feet to anybody.  (It's harder than it sounds.  I'm always putting my feet on chairs while I'm sitting down or crossing my legs so one foot is flapping around.)

Respect
If the culture of Thailand had to be summed up in one word, for me it would be respect.  Children are taught at a very young age to respect their elders and how to perform a wai, the traditional Thai greeting.  When walking past adults or strangers, children will lower their heads or bend down a little bit.  It is considered very rude to walk proudly past somebody or stand over someone.

Thai culture is also very polite.  When speaking with others, especially strangers, Thais will always add Kha (females) or Krap (males) to the end of the sentence.  After a few exchanges the Kha/Krap is dropped and the conversation carries on.   Sometimes it is used to say 'yes' or agree with somebody; or to mean 'this one please' when pointing at something.  There is no translation for it and it is strictly for politeness. (My boss at my school in Bangkok would often use it even when she spoke English.  I often heard her say "Good Morning Kha")

Beauty
Appearance is very important to the Thais, especially women.  They take pride in their appearance and will go to great lengths to keep their skin out of the sun.  Women often wear removable sleeves when in direct sunlight, and guard their face with umbrellas, newspapers, large hats or whatever they can find. (although this does seem to help with the heat somewhat)  They even go so far as to whiten their skin.  Almost all beauty product come with some sort of whitening agent in them, and I mean all beauty products.  Lotions, sunscreens, face wash, body wash, even deodorants have whiteners.  I have to spend extra time in the beauty department reading labels to make sure I don't accidentally buy something with a whitener in it.  I'm not comfortable bleaching my skin mostly because it's not good for you, but also because I feel like I am pale enough already and I don't need lotions to make me any more pale.  Frankly I'd like to try to get less pale while I'm here if I can.  

Food & Drink
Thai food is notoriously spicy and full of robust flavors, and with over 40 different ethnic groups- Thai food is extremely varied with many different ingredients and preparations throughout the country.   They use a variety of spices such as lime, garlic, lemongrass, basil, cilantro, as well as various types of chilies and curry pastes.  Pork, shrimp, tofu, sausage and chicken are the most common 'meats' in any dish.  It is very rare to find beef here as Buddhists don't believe in eating anything bigger than yourself.  Staples include eggs, rice, and noodles. Vegetables include eggplant, potato, cucumber, tomato, pumpkin, morning glory and bean sprouts.  Thai fruit includes your well known apples, bananas, pineapples and grapes as well as rose apples, guavas, mangoes, limes, coconuts and many many others.

Pork fried rice; red curry soup with chicken, vegetables, and white rice; a spicy papaya salad called Som Tam which features tomatoes, garlic, chili, cucumber and long slivers of papaya; Pad Thai, a fried noddle dish with bean sprouts, egg, cilantro, lime, fish sauce and peanuts are all among my favorite Thai dishes. 

In my opinion, Thai iced tea and coffee are the best there around.  The Thais make a mean iced tea, brewed from strong black tea and sweetened with condensed milk.  Thai iced coffee is brewed using strong black coffee and sweetened with sugar, heavy cream and quickly poured over ice.  Both are sweet, cold and cheap and feel amazing in the sweltering Thai sun.  God bless the Thais!

One of the best parts of eating in Thailand is the condiments.  A variety of sauces and spices are served with each meal such as sugar, sweet chili sauce, dried chili flakes and nam pla (literally means chili water) consisting of fish sauce, garlic, lime juice and chopped chilies.

Thai food is eaten with a spoon in your dominant hand and fork in the other. The fork is used to push food onto the spoon, which is really an efficient system for shoveling tasty Thai food into you mouth.  Chopsticks are only used for noodle dishes or soups.  It is almost impossible to find a knife. 

It is impossible to sum up variety and diversity of any culture's cuisine, especially Thailand.  I have left lots of important things out, (street food, desserts, fried foods, alcohol, I could go on) but this is just small sample of what I have found to be my favorite. 


Other Random Facts: 
Family is very important, as reflected in the language.  There are 4 words for aunt and 4 words for uncle alone, depending on whether it is your mother or fathers older or younger sibling. 

When beckoning people or hailing a cab never gesture with your palm up, rather with your palm down, palm up is reserved for dogs. 

In the Buddhist calender it is the year 2555, but calendars with include both years.  The number 5 in Thai is pronounced 'ha' so sometimes this year is referred to as the laughing year.  Likewise, when Thai's need to shorthand laughing on Facebook or Skype chat, instead of writing 'hahaha' they write 5555.  Kinda cute huh?

Wednesdays are considered to be unlucky in Thailand.  You are advised not to get your hair cut, get married or buy a lottery ticket on Wednesdays.  In the country many shops are only open for half the day or completely closed.  (I'm not quite sure why but I think it has something to do with odd numbers being unlucky) All days of the week carry a significance, with their own color, moon and God and the day of the week you were born on is said to have an influence on your personality and your lucky days and colors.

It's Not Easy Being Green

Maybe it's a case of the Mondays, but today has been as they say 'one of those days,' and those days are not easy to have when you are an outsider.  Needless to say, I stick out here.  At 5'6" I'm a bit taller compared to most Thai people, especially the women and I have long blonde hair and fair skin.  Of course I stick out, and I knew I was going to.  I knew what I was in for when I came here and honestly that was part of the appeal.  I wanted to challenge myself by living in a culture that was completely different than anything I'd ever seen.  Most days, it's great, but some days being an outsider is frustrating.  Now that I live in a small town with only a handful of other foreigners, I stand out even more.  Just by walking around town I can attract unnecessary and unwanted amounts of attention.  While walking to the grocery store today I couldn't help but feel like everybody was watching me; surveying me; trying to figure out what in the heck this white girl was doing here.  All I wanted to do was throw a bag over my head and run home.  Generally, people are friendly about it, they look at me with a smile as I pass, and I try hard to muster a smile in return, knowing they are somewhat skeptical of the newcomer.  But it's hard to ignore the all too common shouts of "FALANG, FALANG", which is the slang word for foreigner in Thailand.  It's not derogatory in anyway and it's not meant to be mean, it's just what they call us, sometimes we even use it to describe ourselves.  But after awhile, it starts to wear on you.  Every time I hear it all I can think is "Yes, I'm a foreigner, thank you for telling everybody what they already knew."  Basically, "Thank you captain obvious."  (I did learn how to say "that's correct" in Thai as a comeback, but I haven't gotten up to courage to use it yet.)  I think the hardest part for me is the fact that I can't do anything about it.  Thailand is a place where displaying emotion, especially anger and frustration, is unheard of.  It is seen as a sign of weakness and will get you nowhere.  When I get annoyed or irritated by all the staring and whispering; all I can do is bite my tongue and try to force a smile.  The concept of 'saving face' has definitely been one of the hardest parts of this culture to learn for me.  I don't mean to complain or sound ungrateful, I love being in Thailand and it's people are generally warm and friendly, but sometimes to really love a place you have to learn to take the good with the bad.  Some days that's harder to do than others.
STAY HUNGRY, STAY FOOLISH